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It’s not every day that you visit a tasting room that plays hip hop, serves Brazilian hot sauces and features wines with names like “Sunshine,” “Diva” and “Big Sexy.” But Abbey Creek Vineyard is different from most.
Bertony Faustin is the proprietor and winemaker here — and he’s breaking stereotypes with each bottle. Faustin is the first recorded black winemaker in Oregon and has garnered attention around the globe for his quest to grow diversity in winemaking.
He’s featured in “Red, White and Black,” the independent documentary about minority winemakers in Oregon. Released in summer 2017 and screened across the state, the film is now available to stream online for $7.99.
Faustin isn’t the only BIPOC winemaker in Oregon looking to push boundaries in the industry. He’s worked with four other local winemakers to get the diversity message out through their personal stories, which they share in the documentary.
They include Jarod Sleet of ROCO Winery in Newberg, a young, gay black man from Kentucky who moved here to get into the industry. Faustin donated his first two tons of fruit to Sleet to produce his first two barrels of rose and then pinot noir. Another is Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines in McMinnville, a lesbian winemaker who says she still gets asked if her non-existent husband is the winemaker.
Then Andre Mack of Mouton Noir Wines in McMinnville is a New York City-based sommelier who comes to Oregon each year to source his grapes for his label, which he sells internationally.
A fifth featured winemaker, Jesus Guillén of Guillén Family Wines and White Rose Estate Winery and Vineyard, was one of the few Latino head winemakers in the state before he died of cancer at age 37 in late 2018, after the film’s release.
Faustin is grateful to be doing the work he loves, and to be blazing a trail for others to follow. “It wasn’t about the odds of being successful in the industry, it was just my hustle,” he says. “I can, so I will.”
Make a reservation online for a tasting at “The Crick” — Faustin’s nickname for the winery — in North Plains or at the downtown Portland location, Crick PDX. Look for info on upcoming tasting events, art nights, brunches and more.
A former anesthesiologist assistant, Faustin came into the wine industry in 2007 after his father died and he started reexamining his life and what he wanted to do with it.
Faustin thought of the 50-acre property with 10 acres of vineyards off Northwest Germantown Road that his in-laws kept. They didn’t make wine, they just sold their fruit. The land was calling.
So Faustin and his wife, Jennifer, went all in, starting a family about the same time Faustin took winemaking classes and found a mentor. In 2008 he and his wife started producing wines with their pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay and gewurztraminer grapes and, more recently, gamay noir and albarino.
The wines pair with the line of De Cabron chili pepper sauces he imports from Brazil, designed to complement and balance the spicy-sweet-smoky mouth feel of the wine.
Faustin loves drawing in visitors any way he can, because it all comes down to his passion for the craft. By sharing his and other minority winemakers’ stories through film, he hopes both to inspire and empower others to follow in their footsteps — and shake up the image of Oregon wine for locals and visitors alike. “I want to start targeting a whole other demographic [than most Oregon wineries],” he says.