Meet Oregon’s Old-School Winemakers

Easton Richmond,  Photographer
August 20, 2018
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Lovers of Oregon wine have come to expect a handcrafted product, made with care in small batches with the utmost attention to sustainability and process.

Brad and Bethany Ford have taken that to the extreme. While many wineries practice natural winemaking (with minimum chemical and technical intervention), the founders of Illahe Vineyards in Dallas use historical winemaking techniques for their signature 1899 pinot noir, keeping electricity, machines, enzymes and modern materials like steel out of the process — just like it might have been done in the old days.  

“Historical winemaking slows down the process, makes it more romantic and also gets you more involved in the materials you’re using,” says Brad Ford, who runs the winery with his wife and two small children in Dallas, 15 miles west of Salem in the Mount Pisgah viticultural area. The majority of their 60-acre vineyard is devoted to pinot noir; the rest is split between tempranillo, viognier, pinot gris and gruner veltliner.

The founders of Illahe Vineyards in Dallas use historical winemaking techniques.

Making wine like it’s 1899

While most wineries truck their grapes to the winery at harvest, Illahe employs a team of horses, Doc and Bea, to get the job done. The Fords prune and de-stem the grapes by hand, relying on natural fermentation and use a wooden basket to press to age their pinot noir in French and Oregon oak barrels. They hand-bottle and hand-label the 1899 wine, and avoid enzymes and additives and machines in order to preserve the characteristics of their vintage varietals.

A winemaker inspects a barrel in the shadows.
Historical winemaking is a slowed-down process.
A winemaker pedals an old-school bike to generate energy.
The 1899 pinot noir is made without electricity or modern machinery
A winemaker shovels juicy grapes out of the barrel.
Illahe winemakers prune and de-stem the grapes by hand.

The slow journey north

Then it’s time for the wine’s 96-mile journey north, from vineyard to distribution not by truck but by stagecoach, canoe and bicycle. “We bring the bill of sale and everything,” says Brad Ford, who makes the three-day trek in early August. They first load 10 cases into a stagecoach pulled by six mules, who trek the wine to the Willamette River in Independence. Here, the team loads it onto a flotilla of canoes for the three-day journey north, stopping along the way for lunch and dinner with friends.

Finally, they transport their precious cargo by bike trailer from their unloading spot in West Linn to their distribution warehouse in Milwaukie. “We actually got pulled over last year by a Polk County sheriff boat (officer), who said, ‘What are you doing?’” Ford recalls. To which he responded, “We’re just taking wine down the river.” The sheriff let them go, all quirkiness aside.

Illahe Vineyards is LIVE-certified and certified Salmon Safe, ensuring that sustainability practices are thorough throughout the winemaking process.

Less water, tastes great

While the Fords don’t use electricity in the winemaking process for their 1899 wine, they utilize solar panels on the roof of their tasting room for overall operations and the rest of their wines. Their vineyard is also LIVE-certified and certified Salmon Safe, ensuring that sustainability practices are thorough throughout the winemaking process.

Visitors can learn more about the Deep Roots Coalition, a group of about two dozen Willamette Valley winemakers who follow a practice called dry farming — not using water on mature plants — in their commitment to sustainable agriculture as well as to more truly reflect the terroir of the grapes.

Next up for Illahe, they also just planted some chardonnay vines on a new farm. After Labor Day, their tasting room is open by appointments only until Thanksgiving weekend, when they welcome the public for tastings and new releases.

About The
Author

Jen Anderson
Jen Anderson writes and edits Travel Oregon's e-newsletters and other online content. She loves finding the latest places to eat, drink and play around the state with her husband and two young boys. Brewpubs, beaches and bike trails top the list.

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