Intrepid travelers trek to the Alvord Desert in Southeast Oregon for wildly different reasons: to break a world land-speed record, to fly a hot-air balloon, to do yoga, to let their dogs run or to grab some photos of the 12-by-7 mile dry lake bed in the shadow of the Steens Mountain range.
The best reason to visit, however, might also be the most relaxing. This remote, supremely gorgeous corner of the state is home to magnificent hot springs. Here’s how to enjoy them under some of the darkest skies in the country.
Hot Springs, Beer and Art Near Burns
Visitor-friendly Crane Hot Springs is 25 minutes southeast of downtown Burns, population about 2,700 people, the biggest city in Harney County. Here visitors from all over the world come to find serenity in the restorative hot springs, which are just steps from the cabins, tepee, RV park and on-site campground. Year-round, the family-friendly public pond hovers at a comfortable 101 degrees, perfect for floating or wading, especially at sunrise or sunset. For more privacy, try one of the cedar-enclosed soaking tubs in the bathhouse with a natural hot-water tap that can be filled to the temperature of your liking.
For breakfast The Bird Stop Cafe has coffee, pastries and hearty breakfast burritos on-site at the hot springs. You’ll love the country omelet, pastrami burger, and hearty classics like Salisbury steak or grilled teriyaki chicken at the Crane Store & Cafe, which is open for all three daily meals. For dinner head to Burns for a craft beer, mocktail or cocktail at Steens Mountain Brewing Co. at its new location on Main Street, which also includes a restaurant, the Wild Onion, that does handmade pastas. Stay on-site at its new five-room hotel.
Before leaving Burns, stop for a souvenir at Oard’s Gallery, a third-generation family-owned museum and cultural gift store that’s been around for more than 135 years. Find Native American paintings and other artwork from nine local tribes, handmade furniture and jewelry, arrowheads, coins, clocks, and even a collection of ages-old barbed wire.
Starry Soaks in Oregon’s Outback
Summer Lake Hot Springs is about 2 hours south of Bend and just over 2 hours southwest of Burns, but always worth the drive. Cozy guest cabins and tent and RV sites are available for overnight stays at the resort, which also hosts workshops, festivals and other events. The geothermal pool is said to hold sacred healing powers. At night, you can gaze up at the night sky from your cabin porch, taking in the vast beauty of the newly designated Oregon Outback International Dark Sky Sanctuary — a total of 2.5 million acres of land located within the largest contiguous pristine dark-sky zone in the lower 48 states.
This designation by DarkSky International comes after several years of collaborative efforts by the Oregon Outback Dark Sky Network — a group of partners including community members, local tribes, government agencies, landowners and others. The region is noted for its “extremely dark skies and is protected for its scientific, natural, or educational value to recognize and preserve such places.” The sanctuary area meets strict criteria for sky quality, natural darkness and commitment to protecting the night sky through responsible lighting practices.
Dark sky sanctuaries throughout the world provide opportunities for stargazing, astrophotography and other nighttime activities that require clear skies and minimal light pollution, and this is Oregon’s first.
In addition to Summer Lake, the sanctuary area includes the nearby communities of Adel and Plush and the Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge. It’s full of unique geography and is a popular habitat for wildlife including the American pronghorn, bighorn sheep, sage grouse, white-tailed jack rabbit and migratory birds navigating the Pacific Flyway. Visitors can also experience culturally significant sites like a 13,000-year-old human occupation site, hot springs, wild horses, private rangelands, ranches and lots of cattle.
Hot Springs and Steaks in the Alvord Desert
In Burns you’ll find Alvord Hot Springs, which is privately owned, with twin, rustic concrete pools that overnight guests can access any hour, while day-use visitors should call ahead to check availability. One pool is enclosed within walls to protect it from the wind but with an open ceiling for stargazing; the other is completely open. The springs produce 170-degree water, but pipes with cooler water (up to 130 degrees) allow you to customize the temperature for soaking based on the outside air temperature. There’s no sulfur smell here, no noise, just the feeling of utter bliss and relaxation. Help keep this hot spring and other Oregon attractions enjoyable for other visitors by researching current guidelines and respecting your surroundings.
To spend the night, the campground has tent sites, three RV sites, and a military-style bunker with a plug-in heater and room for anywhere from two to four beds. (Bathrooms are on-site but not en suite.) There’s a two-night minimum stay Friday through Sunday.
A gift shop sells water, snacks, beer and wine, as well as Alvord Ranch beef steaks that you can grill while you’re there. Borrow a propane grill from the office for free with the purchase of a steak, or toss them on the fire pit. The caretaker is a wealth of knowledge about the area, as well as a rock enthusiast — ask to see her collection. Visitors should fully stock up on supplies and gas as soon as possible in Harney County before making the trek to the Alvord Desert.
