Sunlight filters through snow-covered tree branches as we ski across the snow through the Deschutes National Forest, about 6 miles north of Mt. Bachelor in Central Oregon. The terrain undulates beneath us, with just one steep climb so far. As I navigate the uphills, I transfer my body weight onto each ski to keep from slipping backward. On the downhills, I keep my body weight centered, occasionally tipping forward or off to the side, dodging tree branches as I go.
This was the first day of a self-guided, 22-mile hut-to-hut ski trip curated by Three Sisters Backcountry, an outfitter well known to cross-country enthusiasts in Oregon and beyond. All of their trips start and finish at Upper Three Creek Sno-Park, about 10 miles south of Sisters. You’ll park your vehicle, receive a safety briefing and maps, and then hop on a shuttle to Dutchman Flat Sno-Park, where your skis will hit the snow.
Over the next three days and two nights, my friends and I followed the rough trajectory of portions of the historic Metolius-Windigo Trail at an average of 6,500 feet in elevation on cross-country skis. Luckily, we’re all experienced skiers, and we found the trek challenging but glorious. Two rustic, cozy huts — strategically spaced out between Mt. Bachelor and the town of Sisters — promise warmth and comfort on the three day journey. Here’s what to expect if you plan to take the trip.
Experience Cozy Huts After Deep Snow and Mountain Vistas
When we arrived at our first destination, Happy Valley Hut, it was still warm thanks to the previous group, who had stoked the fire. Equipped with sleeping bags and firewood, as well as non-perishable staples like black beans, tortillas, coffee, wine and beer, they served as a warm oasis after a day spent outside. We quickly shoveled a path to the door, and once inside, dried our damp layers by the woodstove. The next day, after a hearty breakfast, we packed our gear and headed outside, greeted by blue skies and what seemed like a foot of fresh snow. As good trail stewards, we were sure to shovel a path for the next guests and restock the cabin with firewood from the generous pile stored beneath.
When we set out on the first day, we followed ski tracks left by weekend adventurers. As we pushed deeper into the backcountry, however, the tracks faded away, a good reminder that experience was necessary to forge on. Through heavy snowdrifts and the occasional road where we could more effortlessly skate downhill, we needed to rely on bright-yellow flags fluttering high in the trees and digital topographic maps, which trace the three-day traverse in bold blue.
Around late afternoon, we caught our first glimpse of our destination for the night, Lone Wolf Hut, and a stunning view of the Three Sisters and Tam McArthur Rim. A mirror image of the Happy Valley Hut but with metal artwork on the door, we repeated the rituals of stoking the fire and drying our gear. We settled in with glasses of wine and a simple meal, watching as the sky transformed into brilliant shades of purple and pink, relishing the moment together.
The next morning, we set out early to tackle the remaining 6 miles. Navigating through a former burn, the charred lodgepole pine contrasted with the white snow. We were rewarded with spectacular views of the Three Sisters and Mt. Jefferson before a descent of about 1,000 feet. Finally, we returned to our car at Upper Three Creek Sno-Park — exhausted, exhilarated and ready to plan next year’s trip.
Planning Ahead and Where to Stay and Eat
Reservations for the Skyline Hut to Hut Ski Traverse fill up quickly, so be sure to plan well ahead and book your trip early; sign up for the waitlist if your desired dates are full. This is not a beginner’s trip, but keep in mind that experienced youth 13 years and older can join adult-led groups. Three Sisters Backcountry provides a gear list and video to help you prepare. Portland’s Mountain Shop and other retailers have gear rentals.
For lodging in Sisters, try the Best Western Ponderosa Lodge, the GrandStay Hotel & Suites, and FivePine Lodge & Cabins for a luxury stay with a spa. Enjoy a hearty meal at Sisters Saloon & Ranch Grill or the High Camp Taphouse once you’re there. Most hotels offer breakfast, but we couldn’t resist stopping at Sisters Coffee Company for warm drinks before driving to the sno-park.
Other Oregon Cross-Country Ski Huts
Not quite ready for a three-day adventure? Consider honing your skills and gearing up for a longer expedition at these other Nordic-skiing destinations in Oregon.
Anthony Lakes Ski Resort in Eastern Oregon offers yurt and guard-station rentals just a short ski from the resort base. These accommodations come equipped with bunk beds, wood stoves and kitchens, providing a cozy retreat after a day on the trails. The resort features over 18 miles of groomed Nordic skiing. Backcountry skiers with avalanche training can explore miles of high-alpine terrain accessible via ski lift, snow-cat tours or on foot. Anthony Lakes yurts book out quickly, so plan ahead.
Odell Lake Lodge & Resort, located in Crescent in the Deschutes National Forest, is a picturesque base camp for winter activities. With groomed cross-country ski trails, cabins and a hotel, this peaceful retreat is enjoyed by skiers of all ages.
Cooper Spur Mountain Resort on Mt. Hood rents family-friendly cabins, condos and hotel rooms with all the luxuries of home — ask for pet-friendly units. The Nordic center offers 4 miles of groomed trails, making it a great destination for beginners and families as well as more experienced skiers. The resort is the launching point for the Tilly Jane Ski Trail, a challenging 2-mile trek through an old burn area that ends at the historic Tilly Jane A-Frame. This rustic accommodation serves as a warming hut for day-trippers and can host up to 20 people.
Clear Lake Resort near Albany in the Willamette Valley is a unique, four-season destination along the 26-mile McKenzie River. Operated by Lane County Parks, the resort has 22 log cabins and three yurts, along with a restaurant, making it a favorite among families.
