The Willamette River is Portland’s most important natural landmark. Flowing beneath the city’s 12 famous bridges, it provides the backdrop for iconic Portland scenes like the blossoming waterfront cherry trees, Eastbank Esplanade bike rides and live music at Tom McCall Waterfront Park. With major improvements to water quality and beach access, warm days bring a community of swimmers, paddlers, kayakers and general revelers to the water’s edge to literally immerse themselves in this iconic city feature. If you’d like to experience the city from the water, here’s what to know about swimming in the Willamette River.
Portland’s Swimming Culture
In the early 20th century Portland had a robust swimming culture, with swimming resorts drawing thousands of revelers to the river’s edge. As the city grew, however, it failed to properly manage its wastewater, and the river was closed to swimming in 1924. For the next 90 years, it was not just unsafe but actually illegal to swim in the Willamette River. That all changed in 2011 after the completion of the “Big Pipe,” a major city-plumbing overhaul that dramatically improved water quality.
Even after that improvement, many Portlanders were tentative about swimming in the middle of the city — at least until Willie Levenson, founder of the Human Access Project, did a test float and was inspired to take on the mission to fill the Willamette River with swimmers once again.
Over the last 10 years, the Human Access Project has raised awareness for river conservation and recreation, bringing over 25,000 people to the river through events, beach-cleanup efforts, new docks and swimming ladders.
Where to Go to Swim and Sunbathe
Today Willamette River swimmers are spoiled for choice. On the west side of the river, Poet’s Beach has a sandy beach that’s great for swimming. It gets its name from the collection of stones engraved with thoughts about the Willamette from Portland youth and members of the Confederated Tribes of Grande Ronde.
You’ll find Sellwood Riverfront Park in Southeast Portland, one of city’s most popular swimming beaches. There’s a floating dock with six swim ladders, as well as a sandy beach that’s great for sunbathing before your dip on hot days. Guss Mobile Sauna often pops up here for a post-plunge warm-up — check the calendar to reserve your spot.
From there, cyclists and walkers can head a couple of miles north on the Springwater Corridor to Audrey McCall Beach, a swimming hot spot on Portland’s central eastside.
Just a little farther north on the floating Duckworth dock, the Human Access Project and Lloyd Ecodistrict organize pop-up Duckworth Summer Wednesdays with DJs and food carts — check the event calendar for details.
In North Portland, Ebb & Ember Floating Sauna offers another opportunity to warm up after a cold plunge, this time from a floating dock on the Columbia River.
South of Portland in Milwaukie is Elk Rock Island, a nearly 14-acre park on a rocky island in the river. During the winter the island is inaccessible by foot, but as the water level drops during spring and summer, a rocky isthmus is revealed. A 10-minute walk will bring visitors to the island itself, where sandy coves offer easy water access and basalt ledges create ideal spots for riverside picnics.
For more swimming in and near the city, check out these ideal swimming spots.
Join a Community of River Lovers
Levenson says visitors can support the Human Access Project’s work just by enjoying a dip in the river. “We call it the world’s laziest revolution,” says Levenson. “You can make a difference by just showing up and demonstrating with other people that this river has value.” If you’d like to do even more, sign up for a volunteer shift on the project’s Beach Brigade, which removes concrete and riprap from beaches to improve access to the water’s edge.
Any experienced swimmers — Portland resident or not — can join the River Hugger Swim Team, an outdoor swim team now in its 15th year. If you’re able to self-certify that you can swim a mile in a pool in under 45 minutes, you’re ready to join the crew. Fill out the online questionnaire well in advance of your visit. You’ll be paired with a partner for your first swim and outfitted with a visibility float. “It’s a fun way to visit Portland, because it’s a chance to be part of Portland’s culture,” says Levenson, “and people who swim in the river tend to be interesting, fun people.”
If You Go:
Today the Willamette River’s water quality is almost always safe for swimming except in two conditions: Immediately after heavy rains and in the heat of summer when toxic algae might bloom in the water. Check water quality online before jumping in.
You’ll also want to practice basic river safety: Wear shoes, be aware of the current, check water temperature and don’t go in over your head if you’re not a strong swimmer. When in doubt, wear a personal flotation device. Kids should wear one no matter what.
