A leisurely brunch is particularly appealing during wintertime in Oregon, when the dwindling daylight and colder temperatures evoke the hygge lifestyle, a Scandinavian winter way of life. Hygge, a Danish term that roughly translates to “cozy,” evokes sipping tea in front of a fire or reading a book while wrapped in a wool flannel blanket.
You can take further inspiration from our Scandinavian friends by finding winter solace at any of Oregon’s five Broder bruncheries, which specialize in Nordic fare that includes traditional meatballs but also so much more — from delicate potato crepes stuffed with seasonal produce to a hearty Swedish hash anchored by house-smoked steelhead. Most everything comes topped with Broder’s signature item: two eggs baked for just under 15 minutes with a touch of clarified butter, resulting in a tender yolk and creamy-white border.
Other than choosing which dish will serve as the vehicle for those eggs, you’ll have to pick a Broder — a challenging task on its own. The name, which means “brother” in Swedish, couldn’t be more apt. Co-owner Peter Bro likens them to five siblings — no two have the same personality. Here’s how to brunch like the locals do.
Hit All Three Portland Locations
The original Broder Café in Southeast Portland, with its gabled roof and powder-blue-and-brick façade, looks like a Norwegian village bistro that’s lost its fjords. Opened in 2007, the small dining room exudes comfort in the form of pastel-colored seating and shelving for its vast aquavit collection — the largest on the West Coast — with warm lighting from a striking chandelier that resembles a tree stripped of its leaves. Try to snag a corner window seat near the counter to enjoy lefse, or Norwegian potato pancakes, stuffed with toppings like ham and cheese. Walk off brunch at nearby Ladd Circle Park and its sprawling rose gardens at the literal center of Portland’s Ladd’s Addition neighborhood, with a unique diagonal street system lined with stately historical homes.
There’s always a sunny corner on North Mississippi Avenue at Broder Nord, painted a cheery shade of buttermilk. Also brightening the mood is a vibrant green canopy of hanging plants, and the roll-up glass garage doors allow for people-watching in this constantly busy entertainment district. A small gift shop sells books on Scandinavia, Swedish dishcloths, and note cards printed with homey images of socks, yarn and candles.
Reserve the better half of a day to visit Broder Söder, which opened in 2015 at nonprofit Nordic Northwest’s cultural center. Start your morning with an order of aebleskiver for the table, Danish pancakes disguised as doughnut holes served with tart lingonberry jam and a silky lemon curd. Then wander the campus’s trails, which boasts displays of traditional clothing, a Steiner-designed log home and a 19-foot-tall troll statue made by an acclaimed Danish artist who worked entirely with recycled materials.
Dine in a Vintage Hotel in the Columbia River Gorge
Broder Øst was the brand’s first restaurant outside of Portland, launched in Hood River in 2016. The eastward expansion landed in an equally pretty building: the ground floor of the historic Hood River Hotel. Adjacent to the lobby, the restaurant adopted the 1911 property’s vintage aesthetic: a large warm-toned wood bar, wallpapered breakfast nooks and a cozy mezzanine. Lost Eggs are a must — a creamy bake that arrives in a miniature cast-iron skillet with ham, wilted spinach and a parmesan-panko crust. If you have room, spring for a side of smashed potatoes with a cloud of marjoram cream before you head out to stroll along the Columbia River or play at sno-parks near Mt. Hood.
Experience Scandinavian Culture in Astoria
The youngest sibling, Broder Strand, arrived in Astoria in late 2023. Bro had for years wanted to open a location in the city on the Columbia River due to its rich Nordic history — once home to the largest settlement of Finns west of the Mississippi. Signs of Scandinavian influence still abound, from Astoria Nordic Heritage Park to fifth-generation-owned Josephson’s Smokehouse. Strand, which translates to “beach” as well as “place of hospitality by the water,” took over the first-story cafe in the 1925 Commodore Hotel, also now operated by Bro. The restaurant’s accent wall — decorated with knickknacks like candelabras, aebleskiver pans and brightly colored Swedish dala horse figurines — will transport you to a Nordic grandmother’s cozy abode. For a different take on a Benedict, order Broder’s version with browned trout cakes that are a delightful substitute for English muffins.
