: Anya Cam

Indigenous Flavors Meet Fine Dining

Native chef brings a unique culinary experience to a luxury resort in Willamette Valley wine country.
February 21, 2023 (Updated December 10, 2024)

Growing up on the banks of the Siletz River in Oregon’s Central Coast town of Siletz, chef Jack Strong learned traditional foodways as part of his Confederated Tribes of Siletz Indians upbringing. When the executive chef and cookbook author took the helm at renowned JORY Restaurant at The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg in 2022, he found heritage foods ready to welcome back his family. 

Wild mussels, harvested by coastal tribes for thousands of years, were enduring on the wave-beaten rocks just a couple of hours away. “My wife was craving them so bad, she looked for days ahead at the tides, and the time worked out for 5:30 a.m. at Seal Rock,” he says. “She collected just enough to steam some for later, and she felt like she was back home again.”

At JORY, with his new 3-hour Native Foods Tasting Menu experience, Strong shares similar ingredients foraged or grown in Oregon — and that warm, welcoming feeling — with visitors to the Willamette Valley wine-country resort. 

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Male chef portrait.
(Photo by Anya Cam/ The Allison)

A Commitment to Native and Homegrown Cooking

The chef — who has earned a James Beard award nomination and an award for culinary excellence for outstanding executive chefs at Marriott hotels—  spent much of his 30-year career highlighting homegrown and Native cuisine at Arizona luxury hotel properties, most recently at JW Marriott’s Scottsdale Camelback Inn Resort & Spa.  

He’s also no stranger to Oregon’s food scene, having graduated from Lane Community College’s culinary program in Eugene, worked at the restaurant in his tribe’s Chinook Winds Casino Resort in Lincoln City and served as guest chef at the prestigious International Pinot Noir Celebration in McMinnville.

A group of adults dining and speaking happily to one another.
(Photo by Brittney Eisele/ Taste Newberg)

Dining at a Willamette Valley Favorite

Strong is in a great place to achieve his goal of sharing stories and providing a warm welcome in the restaurant. The boutique resort’s extensive property features not only 85 luxury rooms, a spa, and the restaurant and banquet facilities, but also comes with a meticulously maintained 1.5-acre kitchen garden and beehives overseen by resident master gardener and beekeeper Anna Ashby. Pro tip: For visitors looking ahead to possible menus, Ashby posts weekly State of the Garden reports on the resort’s website sharing what is ready for the kitchen.

With a strong culinary team in place — plus new director of wine Brian Cook, who oversees a 500-label portfolio focused on Oregon wines — the chef seeks to continue to elevate the dining experience for guests. “It’s not just about my vision here,” he says. “It’s cultivating the talent and helping them grow.”

The ever-evolving menu for the intimate restaurant shines a spotlight on foods indigenous to the Americas. This means bushels of tomatoes, squash and beans but also the bounty Oregon’s famed agriculture in the Willamette Valley provides. The spacious kitchen takes its farm-to-table approach seriously, expending the effort needed to transform raw materials into fine dining. The team creates its own charcuterie from premium meats, including bacon, ham and terrines. For example, they receive sustainably farmed white sturgeon from Fort Klamath in Southern Oregon, breaking down the whole fish and using as much of it as they can. That might include a seared preparation served with ivory lentils and garden purple cauliflower. Even hamburgers are all made in-house, says Strong — from the Wagyu steak trim to freshly baked buns and homemade pickles.

Plates of food - soup, charcuterie and chicken dish.
(Photo by Brittney Eisele / Taste Newberg)

Telling the Story of Local Food

Strong always plans to do more to support and highlight tribal foods, focusing on seasonal cooking and telling the story of a dish’s heritage. Guests can see influences on the menu such as a mouthwatering dish featuring the mussels beloved by his Siletz tribal ancestors and family alike. The chef simmers these humble shellfish in a fumet (fish broth) enriched with butternut squash and venison sausage with sage and charred apples. It’s all the more impressive to learn that the fumet is made from fish bones of the sturgeon they receive each week. “The broth is so good, we have to manage the portions on it,” he says, laughing. 

The chef has also started hosting events with tribal partners. In celebration of Native American Heritage Month in recent years, Strong has hosted a Celebration of First Foods dinner and marketplace at The Allison Inn & Spa. An all-Indigenous team of three chefs headed by Strong served dishes reflecting ingredients and preparations from their tribal heritages, and the meal was paired with wines from Indigenous winemakers. The marketplace featured not only local Indigenous vendors, but performances by chefs and iconic jingle dancer Acosia Red Elk, and information booths for various programs and services.

In the future, Strong is sure to do more events, which might include wine dinners and a happy hour for locals, providing glasses of wine and fun things to eat in a lounge atmosphere. For the time being, if you’re interested in getting close to the action and innovations underway, book a seat at the exclusive Chef’s Table, where up to 10 guests can request a spot near the glass-enclosed kitchen.

 

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About The
Author

Jennifer Burns Bright
Jennifer Burns Bright serves as the editor of long-form travel content for Travel Oregon’s website and annual visitor guide, as well as other custom publications in Oregon’s dynamic travel industry. Based on the Oregon Coast, she holds a Ph.D in English Literature and has been certified as a Master Food Preserver and Master Gardener. Her writing specialties include culinary travel, wellness and resorts, as well as general travel in the Pacific Northwest. She spends her free time foraging for wild foods, renovating her WWI-era home, and exploring our beloved state.

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