Intrepid travelers trek to the Alvord Desert in Southeastern Oregon for wildly different reasons: to break a world land speed record, to fly a hot air balloon, to do yoga, let their dogs run or to grab some photos of the 12-by-7 mile dry lake bed in the shadow of the Steens Mountain range.
Our personal favorite reason to visit, however, is to soak up the tranquility of the space from one of the two personal soaking pools at Alvord Hot Springs.
While privately owned, overnight guests can access the pools at any hour while day-use visitors should call ahead to check availability. They’re enclosed in rustic huts that offer some privacy for couples or small groups, with an ideal year-round water temperature of 170 degrees. There’s no sulfur smell here, no noise, just the feeling of utter bliss and relaxation. Help keep this hot spring and other Oregon attractions enjoyable for other visitors by researching current guidelines and respecting your surroundings.
To spend the night, the campground accommodates tents and RVs with a 2-night minimum stay. But in the wintertime, it would be cozier to reserve space in one of the heated steel bunker units, each of which has beds for four, electricity and access to the bathroom and other amenities.
A gift shop sells water and snacks, and the caretaker is a wealth of knowledge about the area (as well as a rock enthusiast — ask to see her collection). Visitors should fully stock up on supplies (and gas) as soon as possible in Harney County before making the trek to the Alvord Desert.
Not far from Alvord Hot Springs is Mickey Hot Springs, but you’ll need a Bureau of Land Management map to find it, since it’s off the main highway and not on any GPS. An active geothermal site, the boiling mud pots are evidence that the 10-foot-deep azure pool is too hot for soaking. But in the winter, the icy landscape — framed by the ever-present sagebrush and towering Steens Mountain — is one you won’t find anywhere else. If conditions allow, it’s worth the detour to spend a few moments and marvel in the raw beauty.
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Next, head about 90 minutes north to the tiny town of Crane, literally an oasis in the desert. The visitor-friendly Crane Hot Springs is 25 minutes southeast of downtown Burns, the biggest city in Southeastern Oregon.
Here, visitors from all over the world come to find serenity in the restorative hot springs, which are just steps from the cabins, teepee, RV park and on-site campground. Year-round, the family-friendly public pond (clothing required) hovers at a comfortable 101 degrees, perfect for floating or wading in morning, noon or under the stars. Sunrise or sunset soaks are unrivaled.
For more privacy, try one of the cedar-enclosed soaking tubs in the bathhouse at Crane Hot Springs, with a natural hot water tap that can be filled to the temperature of your liking.
When you get hungry, the Steens Loop area has some charming options. For breakfast grab a country omelet at the Crane Store and Cafe, or for lunch enjoy a burger and famously thick shake at The Fields Station in Fields. For dinner, head to Burns for a much-earned McCoy Creek Scottish Ale by Steens Mountain Brewing Company to go along with one of their many fried chicken sandwiches.
On your way home, stop for a souvenir at Oard’s Gallery, a third-generation family-owned museum and cultural gift store that’s been around for 135 years. Find a collection of Native American paintings and other artwork from nine local tribes, handmade furniture and jewelry, arrowheads, coins, clocks and even a collection of ages-old barbed wire.
If you’re not quite ready to leave yet, extend your happy vibes at Summer Lake Hot Springs, two hours southwest of Bend on Oregon Outback Scenic Byway. Cozy guest cabins and tent and RV sites are available for overnight stays at the resort, which also hosts workshops, festivals and other events. The geothermal pool is said to hold sacred healing powers.