Situated under Central Oregon’s sunny skies at the confluence of three rivers — the Metolius, Crooked and Middle Deschutes — Lake Billy Chinook is one of Oregon’s top destinations for hiking, boating, paddling, fishing and camping every summer.
The lake is encompassed by The Cove Palisades State Park, and instantly recognizable for its almost otherworldly geology — the reason for its many distinctions. It is one of Oregon’s deepest lakes, up to 415 feet at its deepest point. It has some of the steepest canyons in Oregon, with dramatic basalt cliffs rising 500 feet above the water. Due to its unusual elongated, river-like shape, it also offers one of the longest shorelines of any Oregon lake, of 72 miles.
You can spend a few hours or a few days experiencing it all at the park, which was named in honor of Billy Chinook, a local chief and tribal member of the Wasco Nation who was a guide for American settlers in the 1840s and a sergeant for the U.S. Army Indian Scouts in 1866.
With its epic geology, this high-desert oasis feels exceptionally remote, yet it’s extremely accessible — about 2.5 hours southeast of Portland and 40 minutes north of Bend, just a few miles off Highway 97 for travelers coming from Mt. Hood or the Columbia River Gorge. Check Tripcheck.com for road conditions and Oregon’s live air-quality map before you head out in case of wildfire smoke. When it’s safe to travel, here are 5 ways to enjoy the lake this summer.
1. Play on the water.
It’s remarkably easy to play on the water at Lake Billy Chinook. You can bring your own kayak, canoe or paddleboard and traverse part of the tranquil 6-mile Crooked River Water Trail (among 30 miles of flat-water paddling) to spy eagles, herons and other wildlife, in addition to many historical features visible under the surface of the water that were submerged when Round Butte Dam was installed in 1964. See if you can spot remnants of a homestead, peach orchard and the original state park campground, built in the late 1930s and early 1940s.
Find accessible launches at the Crooked River and Upper Deschutes day-use areas. Don’t forget to snag a Waterway Access Permit. If you visit outside of summer, in fall or spring, the water is as smooth as glass, and Oregon State Parks leads guided kayak excursions. If you like it speedier you can visit the Cove Palisades Resort & Marina (open April-October) on site to rent one of several types of cool boats (ski boats, fishing boats, pontoon boats, wave runners) along with water skis and inner tubes for fun. Each boat rental comes with life jackets.
Note: If there is an algae advisory for the lake, you can still play on the water — boating is safe as long as speeds don’t create excessive water spray. If you are planning to swim or allow your pet to go off leash near or in the water, you should use precaution by checking the Oregon Health Authority page. However, the algae advisory — which happens at bodies of water everywhere sometimes in shallow water on very hot days — is not a cause to cancel plans or avoid the water altogether.
2. Go for a hike
The spectacular landscape here — including views of the Cascade Range — make for a perfect day of hiking. Choose from two top options. The 2-mile (out-and-back) Crooked River Rim Trail takes you along the Crooked River arm of the reservoir with a perfect vantage point of “The Island” in the middle of the lake. This 200-acre landform, which separates the Deschutes and Crooked river arms of the reservoir, is the largest remaining ungrazed and unaltered ecosystem of its type in the U.S. It’s a National Natural Landmark, closed to the public since 1997 to protect the fragile habitat for its resident eagles and other raptors. You’ll also look down on a sculpted erosional remnant known as “The Ship.” The trail has a modest 210-foot elevation gain.
Those looking for more of a workout can tackle the Tam-a-láu Trail, named for the Native phrase meaning “place of big rocks on the ground.” It’s 6 miles round-trip from the trailhead in the Deschutes Campground or 7 miles round-trip from the trailhead in the Upper Deschutes Day Use Area boat trailer parking lot. Take the steep trail to the top of a plateau for incredible mountain and canyon views, plus pristine habitat for wildlife and native vegetation.
Hikers should stay on designated trails to prevent erosion; pack out all trash; keep dogs on leash at all times; carry plenty of water; and be alert for rattlesnakes in this dry high-desert terrain.
Fun fact: In 1878, the original homesteader named a refreshing swimming hole on the Crooked River “The Cove.” The name stuck when the state leased the first land for a park in 1940. “Palisades” refers to the tall column-like formations seen in the basalt rimrocks.
3. Go fishing
Lake Billy Chinook delivers some of the best fishing in the region, with more than 4,000 acres of water surface. It’s home to kokanee (sockeye salmon), small- and large-mouth bass, and many trout species. Crawfishing is also popular, and the lake is especially well-known as the only place in Oregon where bull trout thrive and can be harvested. An Oregon fishing license is required to fish anywhere on the lake, and fishing on the Metolius Arm (March through October) requires a tribal angling permit. The Crooked and Deschutes arms are open year-round. Find an accessible fishing platform at the Crooked River Day Use Area.
Ask a ranger about the cool work underway to return native salmon and steelhead populations from Round Butte Dam to the ocean by the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs and PGE, the co-managers of dam. They are transporting the migrating fish around the dam to the Upper Deschutes so they can once again travel the 200 miles to the ocean to spawn.
4. Grab ice cream and a burger
No day on the water is complete without a satisfying burger and sweet treat. Two miles outside the park, you’ll find the Cove Corner Store — a must-stop on your way in or out of the park for 16 flavors of hand-dipped locally made ice cream — plus snacks, souvenirs, fishing tackle, ice, cold beverages, apparel and camping equipment.
Also in Culver about 5 miles from the park entrance are two great local spots perfect for a hearty lunch or dinner stop: Beetle Bailey Burgers and next-door Juniper Cove Bar & Grill, a down-home restaurant known for their smash burgers, chicken fried steak and prime rib specials.
It’s a fun idea to grab food for a scenic picnic at the park, with plenty of tables along the shoreline. You can also visit the Cove Palisades Resort & Marina Café/Store inside the park at the north end of the Crooked River Day Use Area for more goodies and supplies. Grab a spot at the café indoors or on the deck overlooking the lake and sample one of their famous homemade ice cream sandwiches. You’ll find other snacks and general goods and restrooms here as well, plus a “floating restroom” on the lake on the Deschutes arm.
5. Camp, glamp or stay in luxury — choose from a houseboat, tent, RV, cabin or boutique hotel
There’s lodging for every budget and style of adventurer at Lake Billy Chinook, from rustic to luxury. Perhaps the most unique is the houseboat, which you can rent for groups up to 15. These include amenities like satellite TV, refrigerator and freezer, two private staterooms, a wet bar, water slide and more. For something more low-key, plan up to nine months ahead to book one of the three deluxe log cabins near the marina — each with easy lakeside access, showers, refrigerator, grill and deck chairs. Two campgrounds at the park (Crooked River Campground and Deschutes Campground) provide 271 reservable tent and RV sites.
And if camping or glamping isn’t your thing, you can stay in comfort at one of two top hotels in nearby Madras: The Inn at Cross Keys and adjacent Bunkhouse at Cross Keys, both about 20 minutes northeast of the park right off Highways 26 and 97. The Inn at Cross Keys is a 3-story, 72-room hotel with an indoor pool and hot tub, special rooms for families and inviting outdoor patio seating. The Bunk House at Cross Keys offers 50 rustic luxury hotel rooms featuring Old West-inspired furniture and artwork from the region. Find natural materials inside and out, from 900-year-old ghost trees to a canoe light fixture, old barnwood, saddle leather, a tobacco mantle, historic photographs and a display of Old West hats. Visitors can enjoy the stunning views and deluxe breakfast on the third-floor covered patio space, along with modern amenities, rooms with bunk beds, kitchenettes, cozy fireplaces and unique Central Oregon charm.
If You Go:
- Always check Tripcheck.com for conditions and the live air-quality map before you hit the road. Follow wildfire-related closures and sign up for emergency alerts in case of wildfire impact while traveling.
- For more info on algae alerts, visit the Oregon Health Authority page.
- For planning help and questions in the area, check in with the friendly staff at Madras Chamber of Commerce and Visit Central Oregon.
- Stay safe in the water by brushing up on water safety tips, including making sure that children wear properly fitted life jackets.
- All paddlers (of kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, rafts, tubes, etc.) are required to carry a Waterway Access Permit, available online and good for up to two years.
- Note that other Oregon water recreation sites also remain open during algae advisories.
