: Larry Geddis / Alamy Stock Photo

Road Trip: Union, Wallowa and Lostine

Play outside in pristine wilderness and visit historic sites in Eastern Oregon.
May 16, 2024

The Wallowa mountains rise over the piney forests and green fields of Northeast Oregon, beckoning willing hikers, bikers and photographers to come play among the beauty. Far below these 10,000-foot-high peaks, you’ll find rivers to float and fish to catch, and when it’s time to refuel and rest, the nearby towns of Union, Wallowa and Lostine offer all you need for a spectacular road trip. Here are some ideas to get you going on your next adventure out to this stunning part of the state. 

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A passenger train passes along a large creek in the Eagle Cap Wilderness.
Find scenic views of nature from the comfort of a train. (Courtesy of Leon Werdinger)

Cowboys, Fish and a Historic Hotel in Union

First established 160 years ago in 1864 on the banks of Catherine Creek, the historic town of Union sits along the Oregon Trail and was once the center of government for Union County. (These days you’ll find the county seat in La Grande, 15 miles southeast.) About 2,150 people call it home.

Base yourself out of the Historic Union Hotel, a stately brick establishment first built in 1921 that today has more than a dozen unique rooms, along with a lounge. Plan ahead and make a reservation for the first week of June, when the Eastern Oregon Livestock Show comes to town, featuring a rodeo. Check out the Union County Museum for history on the event among other displays. For good eats, head to Union Stoplight for pizza, calzones and sandwiches, or belly up at a century-old tavern, LJ Brewskis Pub, for cheesesteaks and peach pie with ice cream. Steakhouse in nearby Cove is a worthy side trip.

A great Father’s Day weekend idea is to book dad a seat on a vintage train on Eagle Cap Train Rides — it rolls through the scenic valley and includes a mock hold-up by unruly bandits. Trips start out of Elgin, about 35 miles north. 

Nature rules out this way, so be sure to stop by Catherine Creek State Park, about 8 miles away, where you’ll find seasonal camping May to October and a 3-mile-long hiking trail. Bring your fishing rod — Clark Gable may have wet his own line in these cool waters searching for steelhead and salmon. For more hiking, try the North Fork Catherine Creek Trail, a 10-mile out-and-back route you’ll likely have to yourself. The Ladd Marsh Wildlife Area has a viewing platform for spying on birds.

Visitors horse-pack around the lush Wallowas
With several peaks reaching nearly 10,000 feet, the Wallowa Mountains are one for the bucket list. (Photo credit: Leon Werdinger)

Visit the Nez Perce Homeland in Wallowa

About 60 miles north on OR-82 from Union, you come to the town of Wallowa, population 830, which sits on the river of the same name. This valley is the traditional homeland of the Nez Perce. “Wallowa” may be a variation on a word they used to describe part of a fish trap that featured triangular shapes, much like the mountains that share the same name. You can learn more about the culture, view artifacts or even stay on a farm — free for Native Americans and donation-based for everyone else — through the Nez Perce Wallowa Homeland Visitor Center, open May through September. Come in July and you’ll catch the annual Tamkaliks Celebration, a three-day reunion of the descendants of the Wallowa-area tribes featuring dancing, drumming and singing. The public is welcome.

When hunger calls, roll over to the Little Bear Drive-In, a popular spot for burgers and ice cream. For breakfast try The Blonde Strawberry for biscuits and gravy and eggs Benedict.

Three people on a trail with views of a forested canyon.
Alpine views in the Eagle Cap Wilderness. (Courtesy of Matthew Tharp/ USFS)

Head Into the Wilds From Lostine

Pronounced “Lah-steen,” the town of Lostine sits about 8 miles from Wallowa along the Lostine River. The town is small, just 213 people, but worth a stop for the M. Crow General Store alone, which has been in business for more than a century. Inside you’ll find unique denim, craft beer and groceries. The Blue Banana Coffee House does biscotti, cookies, breakfast burritos and more. Best not to resist that smoky scent of Texas-style brisket wafting out of Z’s BBQ. The full-combo tray serves up to four people and includes three meats, three sides, three sauces and, of course, pickles. 

Lostine is also a great jumping-off point for trips into the Eagle Cap Wilderness, Oregon’s largest. The East Fork Lostine Trail makes for a big day hike at nearly 15 miles round-trip with more than 2,200 feet of elevation gain, but you’ll be rewarded with some of the best alpine views in the entire Northwest at Mirror Lake. The view looking back down the valley is equally impressive. For a shorter option, try the Bear Creek Trail, a 5.4-mile-long out-and-back trail that takes you up into the high country along a babbling brook.

About The
Author

Tim Neville
Tim Neville is a writer based in Bend where he writes about the outdoors, travel and the business of both. His work has been included in Best American Travel Writing, Best American Sports Writing and Best Food Writing, and earned various awards from the Society of American Travel Writers and the Society of Professional Journalists. Tim has reported from all seven continents and spends his free time skiing, running and spending time with his family.

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