Youtlkut Pilars

This listing is provided by Travel Southern Oregon

Youtlkut Pillars is a tall rock face of columnar dacite located at an elevation of 4,000 feet between the North Umpqua and Tiller Ranger Districts on the Umpqua National Forest. It is located about half way between Acker Rock and Glide. While there are 16 recorded routes at Youtlkut ranging from 5.6 to 5.9, there are many more cracks in this formation that are climbable but receive little attention. There are fixed anchors at the top of routes that offer easy access for toproping.

Popular routes at Youtlkut are Chinquapin (5.6), Almost Pollock (5.8), Double Crack (5.6-5.7), and The Dime (5.9). 

  • Tope roping requires a minimum of three 15 to 20-foot long slings at
    top to bring your top anchors from the bolted anchors to the edge above climbs. 
  • Rappelling and toproping required two ropes. 
  • A full complement of cams is recommended for lead climbing. Before
    lead climbing, access the soundness of the route you are about to climb, as columns have been known to shift from one season to the next.