As recent as 1,600 years ago, lava covered the floor of part of what’s now known as the McKenzie River Trail — the spectacular outdoor wonderland an hour east of Eugene in Oregon’s Cascade Mountain Range.
Today, the beauty of these lava fields and forested trails — as well as the triple whammy of Sahalie and Koosah waterfalls and Tamolitch Falls (better known as Blue Pool) — make this one of Oregon’s most enchanting places for lovers of nature and outdoor recreation.
While the trail is world-famous for its fishing, whitewater paddling and mountain biking, the 26-mile route’s gentle downhill grade and easy access points make for a perfect backpacking adventure for solo travelers, beginner backpackers and families in particular.
It’s just minutes from the lovely Willamette Valley communities of Vida, Rainbow, Blue River and McKenzie Bridge — with direct access to the postcard-perfect Clear Lake and Belknap Hot Springs — versus being off-the-grid in a remote wilderness area. Cell service is available along parts of the trail, no trail permits are needed, and campsites are available along the route both by booking and on a first-come, first-served basis.
If you haven’t visited in a while, it’s a cool time to take a scenic drive along the McKenzie River Highway and stop off for a burger, a cold beverage and a treat to support local businesses and see how much the forest and communities have recovered since the devastating Holiday Farm Fire of 2020, one of the largest wildfires in the nation at the time.
Inspired yet? Here are some top tips to make your McKenzie River Trail adventure a smashing success.
1. Pick your season
The first decision you’ve got to make is when to visit, since most of the trail is accessible year-round. Winter is for hardy adventurers who don’t mind rain and cool-weather camping; 10 miles of the lower trail section (below Blue Pool) remain snow-free. Spring is still a bit chilly and the ground may be a bit icy or snowy, but the waterfalls are fuller from snowmelt. Summer is the most popular time, with warm temperatures yet cool shade of the tree canopy for most of the lower trail. Go midweek for fewer crowds. You will need to share the trail with mountain bikers and day hikers, although a new side trail and parking area for Blue Pool — the trail’s most popular destination — is set to open in 2027 to alleviate some of the crowds in that area. Visitors flock to see the electric shade of blue of the water as it emerges from the ground after traveling three miles in an underground lava tube. Fall is a lovely time to visit after much of the crowds have left and the leaves are turning golden.
2. Choose your distance
Next, figure out how long you’d like to spend on your trek. One day for the whole 26 miles is doable for experienced trail runners (in fact you can do it as part of Oregon’s oldest continuous ultramarathon each June). Two days makes for long backpacking days but is a fun challenge for intermediate-level hikers. Three-plus days is probably the sweet spot for most backpackers, to fully enjoy the trip. Pro tip: Start at the upper trailhead and go south, which gives you a nice gentle downhill all the way.
3. Book your shuttle
How to manage your transportation when your end point is different from your start point? There are shuttle services for that. A few service this area including Horse Creek Lodge & Outfitters — based just off the lower trail. Owners Gary and Alyssa Brownlee, retired river guides, have been helping backpackers, mountain bikers and rafters have fun on the water and the trail with their shuttle service as well as lodging (four cozy rooms plus a tiny house and cabins) and guided rafting trips since 2011. You can book your shuttle online or by phone; many choose to have their car waiting at the end of the trip. Horse Creek Lodge goes the extra mile by providing bonus amenities at their property including an outdoor shower and a stocked fridge of cold beverages donated by local businesses for guests to enjoy post-adventure. During the shuttle ride the Brownlees also give plenty of expert advice and valuable insider tips about trail navigation and more local knowledge.
4. Figure out your camping options
There are four public campgrounds just off the trail, perfect for backpackers to bed down for the night: Coldwater Cove Campground, Trail Bridge Campground, Olallie Campground and Paradise Campground. Each offers both reservable and first-come, first-served sites. There are also bookable cabins and yurts at Clear Lake Resort, located along the trail at the start of the upper trailhead. On the lower trailhead you can look to book a cabin or tent space at the private Belknap Hot Springs, just steps from the trail and an inviting place to take a diversion even as a walk-in guest. The springs are developed soaking pools; there’s also a small store with grab-and-go snacks and drinks. Reservations at all bookable sites fill up quickly in the summer months. Another option is to look for dispersed campsites along the trail, which can be lovely by the river. Just be sure to abide by “no camping” signs and leave each spot cleaner than you found it.
5. Hit the trail
Now that the arrangements have been made, pack your bags and set out. It’s a good idea to download a map to carry with you and check the official Forest Service page before you go in case of closures or alerts. On the way, you can listen to a podcast episode about the new trail being built in 2027 for day hikers visiting Blue Pool — by far the most popular and crowded site along the trail.
Safety alert: The steep cliffs surrounding Blue pool are 10-60 feet tall and the average water temperature is a near-freezing 37 degrees Fahrenheit, far below comfortable swimming temperature. There are signs posted to warn visitors to avoid jumping in; people have been severely injured or died at this site in the past. There is minimal to zero phone reception in the area and it can take hours for emergency responders to arrive.
Backpackers can fill up water at any of the campgrounds, so you don’t have to carry too much at one time. While hiking, always be alert for other trail users, mostly mountain bikers — it’s best to step off the trail in a safe manner when possible to let them pass. Also check up on the campfire restrictions during wildfire season and do your part to leave your campsites and the trail cleaner than you found it.
6. Get immersed in the community
Before or after your adventure be sure to grab a meal at any of the friendly restaurants in the area. McKenzie Station Pub is an excellent stop for top-notch burgers and sandwiches as well as its signature New York steak and 20-hour brisket. The McKenzie General Store & Obsidian Grill is a worthy detour for both camping supplies and provisions (including locally sourced, organic cheese, produce and other curated snacks) as well as a full menu with everything from fresh-caught wild salmon burgers to housemade burrito bowls, including plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. The patio hosts live music twice a week. Takoda’s Restaurant & Lounge is a local favorite with daily specials like BBQ meatloaf and house-crusted prime rib. Consider extending your trip in the area with a stay at the cheery Horse Creek Lodge property — the four rental cabins accommodate between 4 and 16 guests and are open all year-round.
