Oregon’s southeastern corner captivates me precisely because it doesn’t feel like Oregon. There’s no moss. Not much rain either. Even trees are awfully scarce. What it does have though is room to breathe. Its vast expanse showcases looming mountains, alkaline lake beds or nothing at all — if that’s what you’re seeking. If you spend some time poking around in a high-clearance vehicle, on foot or — as we did — by fat tire bicycle, Oregon’s "big country" has some hidden gems too.
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