In November 2020, restaurateur Angel Medina opened República on the edge of the Pearl District, with an emphasis on housemade masa transformed into eye-catching creations, like tricolor quesadillas practically begging to be posted on Instagram.
That was just the beginning. The restaurant — currently helmed by a 23-year-old chef, Jose “Lalo” Camarena — rapidly gained attention for its ambitious approach to what it calls Mexico-forward cuisine, bolstered by historical context. Guests were not simply served a game bird lacquered with a blend of fish sauce and fruity guajillo chiles. They might also hear a story about ancient Mexicas sacrificing quails to the Aztec god of rebirth, Xipe Totec, tying this springtime dish to the change of seasons.
Two years later, República the restaurant had become República & Co., a restaurant group encompassing seven food businesses, including three cafes, three restaurants and a bar, as well as the Reforma Roasters coffee roastery. Some highlights include the casual, snacky De Noche, which transforms into mezcal bar Comala at night; and Cadejo Coffee, a cafe and workspace, all near the North Park Blocks in northwest Portland.
Pretty impressive for a place that incorporates lesser-seen ingredients, as well as twists on homestyle classics like beans and rice. Visitors will find heirloom legumes and grains in a multicourse tasting-menu format.
Medina attributes this rapid rise in part to a strong social media presence, with striking photos of aesthetically pleasing food interspersed with posts celebrating sous chefs and behind-the-scenes staff to shine a light on their backstories.
“A lot of our success has been dependent on media creation,” Medina explains. “We weren’t able to get to this level without lots of video, photography and storytelling.”
This media-savvy approach to promotion, coupled with a desire to lift up people who might not get the recognition they deserve, paid off handsomely when two República & Co. establishments — República and Lilia Comedor, a restaurant featuring seasonal food on the waterfront — were included in a 2024 New York Times article featuring the 25 best restaurants in Portland.
History You Can Taste
Using “Mexico-forward” to describe República’s cuisine is a deliberate choice. “Most people think República is a Mexican restaurant, but this is food that belonged to Toltecs, Mayas and Zapotecs,” Medina explains. Every night the staff is sharing their take on this legacy. “There’s no singular Mexican story.”
Medina is invested in this concept, quite literally. He opened República because he felt that many Mexican restaurants started feeling formulaic and were relying on terms like “authentic” or “ancestral” without really understanding what that meant.
The team created a rubric for new dishes at República: First, a dish must have a rich historical context. Ideally, the ingredients should be seasonal and sourced locally. Last but definitely not least, the dish should be plated beautifully with flavors that justify the presentation.
A Pivot to Video
Prior to launching República, Medina was traveling to Mexico and producing videos profiling local food and beverage makers, but this project got put on hold during the pandemic.
September 2024 saw the launch of Todos Media, a Latino platform on YouTube showcasing food, travel and more, written and produced by women and members of the LGBTQ and BIPOC communities. You can find videos on how to shuck an oyster — presented by chef Dani Morales from De Noche — as well as interviews with local food legends like Nong’s Khao Man Gai’s Nong Poonsukwattana. Others include culinary travel tips, like where to find the best sushi in Portland.
“I realize we haven’t followed a standard trajectory,” he says. “If you were to put it down on paper, it would seem like a fantasy.”
To both diners’ and viewers’ delight, storytelling clearly plays an integral role in all of these creative endeavors, whether it’s an exploration of ceviche made with Oregon albacore and Yucatecan octopus or a digital series discussing lack of representation in the world of wine.
Seeing Possibilities After the Pandemic
Medina has become invested in revitalizing downtown Portland, especially the northwest quadrant where many of his businesses are clustered. In a perfect world, he envisions busy shops, galleries and restaurants, enlivened by activities like yoga in the park to bring more vibrant energy and attract more foot traffic to the neighborhood.
Since the pandemic, he has since become involved with local development organizations so he can have a voice in neighborhood redevelopment and budget allocation. After seeing how Paris handles park blocks, for example — by closing them to traffic and creating wide, walkable gravel paths — Medina thinks Portland could replicate something similar in the Pearl District. He recognizes this kind of change requires building relationships in the community and going through official channels.
“In order to have ambition, you have to have hope,” he says.
