Editor’s note: Call businesses before you visit to make sure they’re open and learn about any new operational procedures. Bring a face covering, required for all of Oregon’s public indoor spaces and outdoor spaces when it’s not possible to stay six feet apart. Stay posted on what Oregon’s phased reopening means for you.
Sometimes all you want to dig into in the summer is a plate of juicy brisket, a tender pulled-pork sandwich or a rack of smoked ribs that leaves you reaching for more napkins and an extra-cold beverage. Luckily, it’s barbecue season in Oregon, and there’s no shortage of opportunity to enjoy the best of all of that meaty goodness. The ultimate accolade: The barbecue expert at Texas Monthly even says Portland has the best Texas barbecue scene outside of Texas.
What defines good barbecue in Oregon? BJ Smith, founder of Smokehouse Tavern and executive chef of The Hoxton, has been a chef in Oregon since 1996 and knows his barbecue. He says most of Oregon’s top spots use Pacific Northwest wood and meat, but it’s the techniques and tools that bring the differences.
“We’re all smoking meat slow and low to develop lots of flavor,” he says. “The main difference is the smoker [gas-powered, wood or electric]. We use three different types for the different meats. Some just use one.” Also, some chefs sauce their meats; Smith simply does a dry rub and provides sauces at the table, letting the lamb, beef, chicken or duck speak for itself with just a light sprinkling of Jacobsen Salt to add a bit of a crunch.
If your mouth is watering, that’s a good thing. From roadside dives to something a little classier, here are our top spots for tasty barbecue around these parts of the state:
A serious foodie destination, Storrs Smokehouse in Newberg is the sister restaurant to the Painted Lady Restaurant, a tribute to chef/co-owner Allen Routt’s Southern roots. Routt serves up his family recipes — mouth-watering brisket, pulled pork, chicken wings and St. Louis-style pork ribs — paired with Pacific Northwest flavors like the house-made Oregon pinot noir barbecue sauce and homemade ice cream and biscuits. Call ahead to hear the daily offerings and arrange takeout.
The Cascade BBQ Food Truck, based in Corvallis, brings the smoky goodness to cities across the valley with its plates of tri-tip, wings, pulled pork, hot links and classic sides, as well as portobello mushroom for non-meat eaters. The outdoor patio dining area is arranged for social distancing, while takeout is available via online orders. On Monday and Tuesday, Cascade BBQ operates as a bottleshop and marketplace only, with full restaurant offerings the rest of the week.
Oregon BBQ Company serves award-winning ribs, brisket and more from its drive-through shack in Albany, dubbed the “Purple People Feeder.” The local owners are engaged in numerous community partnerships, celebrating barbecue’s magical power of bringing people together. With drive-thru and walk-up options, Oregon BBQ Company is an easy option, too.
It’s all about sustainable meat at Primal Cuts Market in Bend, which buys its beef, lamb, pork and poultry — and sometimes specialty meat like bison, duck, pheasant, rabbit and elk — from ranchers in Central Oregon and elsewhere around the state who raise their animals without exposure to growth hormones, pesticides or other chemicals. Take home meat by the pound from the freezer or stop in for a wholly satisfying lunch to go — their house-made “porkstrami” on a Sparrow Bakery hoagie or a selection of meats on a charcuterie board.
A former fire chief brings irresistible smoked meats at Sisters Meat and Smokehouse. The house-smoked and cure meats make for outstanding charcuterie and sandwiches. Chow down on a smoked-turkey sandwich or French dip made with house-smoked roast beef, among other mouthwatering menu items. All items are easily made to go.
Mt. Hood and the Columbia River Gorge
Smoked pork ribs are the specialty at Apple Valley BBQ in Parkdale, where it’s smoked — along with the brisket and other meats — with local cherry wood delivered each week from their neighbors at Mt. View Orchards. Local produce, local beer and wine, house-made buns, and stellar cornbread and bread pudding make this spot a must-visit. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday, allowing one person inside at a time for pick-ups and card payments recommended.
At Skyway Bar and Grill in Zigzag, Chef Jason Hornor has turned a 40-year-old roadside diner into a cozy favorite for skiers and families looking for solid Northwest BBQ. Go for broke with the Ludicrous, an open-faced sandwich with house-smoked pulled pork, brisket or tofu plus mashers, cheese sauce and cheddar on a ciabatta bun. Skyway is currently offering takeout and outdoor dining if weather permits.
In La Grande, bring the family to Smokehouse Restaurant, a funky diner on the town’s main street since the ’60s. Their down-home barbecue — everything from the pulled-pork sandwich to ribs — is a nice way to fuel up for adventuring in the Wallowas, Blue Mountains and beyond.
Look for to-go house-smoked barbecue specials at Hines Meat Company, nearby in La Grande. The owners are known to get creative with their Friday Smoked Special and Brat of the Week (Thai sausage, anyone?) — plus you’ll find all the fixings for at-home feasts, from meal kits to ahi poke to housemade pork rinds.
Farther south in Burns, come for the raved-about tri-tip sandwiches at Juniper Cookhouse, stay for the home-baked pies. From biscuits and gravy to peanut butter bars, they’ve got all meals of the day covered. The restaurant hosts theme nights on Wednesdays and currently offers outdoor seating.
In Klamath Falls, Wubba’s BBQ Shack cooks Kansas City-style barbecue that people drive across the state for. With dozens of finger-licking-good dishes — from beer-battered cheddar curds to tri-tip and sticky baby-back ribs — Wubba’s turns first-timers into lifelong fans. In addition to takeout, Wubba’s offering catering.
In Central Point, Mary’s BBQ Place keeps it simple, relying on classic family recipes and a sauce so good, she sells it to go. What’s better than pulled pork on a bun? Pulled pork on a stuffed baked potato, of course.
In Northeast Portland, Podnah’s Pit has long been a favorite for slow-smoked meats using oak hardwood — no electricity, gas or charcoal. Chefs begin the smoking before dawn and the restaurant (currently offering takeout and delivery) closes when the meat sells out.
Hungry diners come from far and wide for Matt’s BBQ on North Mississippi (named food cart of the year in 2016), beloved for its tender, juicy brisket and queso mac ’n cheese, as well as fine Texas-style ribs on weekends. For a fusion twist, Matt’s BBQ Tacos makes barbecue acceptable for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the southeast Hawthorne district. Both outposts offer online ordering.
Holy Trinity Barbecue cart has also been called the hottest barbecue on the West Coast, with Texas-style brisket, ribs and sausage (considered the trinity) worth writing home about. Sides are playful spins on the classics, like their version of coleslaw, a tangy slaw made with ramen noodles and sunflower seeds. The restaurant offers pre-orders online and limited walk-up business hours.
West of Portland in Aloha, Premium Smokehouse serves up satisfying family-style combos, from chicken and ribs to brisket and pork. Try their signature sandwich, the Gooch, with chopped brisket, pulled pork, hot links and pork belly. Order online through several delivery services.